Fish River Canyon Hike
The Grit, Sand and Glory of Namibia's Great Canyon
Five days, two feet, one canyon, and a lifetime's worth of memories. This is the raw, unfiltered journal of my trek through the world's second largest canyon.
Day 1
Into the Canyon
We all woke up early, buzzing with nerves and excitement. The plan was to be at reception by 6:45 a.m., but of course, we ran a bit late, and for once, it wasn't our fault. The organiser was behind schedule, thank goodness, or Sibusiso would've had our heads.
When the host started the briefing in Afrikaans, I nearly lost my cool and blurted out, "English please!" Shame, I don't like that about Namibia, colonisation really left its mark between the Germans and the Afrikaans. I realised then just how much that language grates me.
The bus ride was long, with two stops planned. The first was forgettable, but the second, the Fish River Canyon Viewing Point, took my breath away. Seeing it from above confirmed I'd made the right choice to come. I knew, right then, I had to see the Grand Canyon one day too.
On the bus, we also learned that one of the guys hiking with us had lost both his parents in a car accident recently. My heart shattered into tiny pieces, I couldn't help but cry. My emotions were raw, I could tell my period was close.
I wanted to take his hand, to offer comfort, but he brushed it off with humour. He's loud, funny, and clearly used to attention, just not that kind.
When we finally reached the start of the trail, the challenge ahead became clear. Our group was mixed, two older ladies, two elderly ones, myself, Toss (the young man I'd been chatting with), and three local guides.
It soon became obvious that some hadn't trained. Toss and I quickly found ourselves way ahead, laughing like old school friends. Waiting, however, became frustrating. At one point, we sat for over an hour and a half before the rest caught up. The older hikers struggled, one already needed help with her pack on Day 1. My heart went out to her, she was so sweet and determined.
We camped not far from the canyon's start, which worried me since we hadn't covered much distance. I spent most of the afternoon with my feet in the water, lost in thought. As the sun dipped below the horizon, I pitched my tent, freshened up, and made dinner, the best part of any hiking day.
Two solo hikers, or "stray cats" as I call them, joined our group. They were young and easy to relate to. The Afrikaans chatter continued in the background, but as I always say, if you want me in the conversation, you'll speak English.
Day 2
Sand, Sun and Blisters
We woke up at 5 a.m., ready for another long day. I'd slept surprisingly well but woke at midnight just to watch the stars, they were unreal.
The terrain was brutal: sand, heat, and massive boulders. We spent two hours waiting again for word on the struggling lady. Frustrating, but unavoidable.
When we finally moved, the heat hit hard. Our lunch spot in the middle of the river was a saving grace, a giant boulder shaded us as we rested and laughed. Later, we clambered over house sized rocks, practically rock climbing our way to camp.
I found a perfect flat spot for my tent with the most gorgeous view of the canyon walls. I must have taken a hundred photos of the same view because I couldn't get enough.
After setting up, I jumped into the river. Pure heaven.
TRAIL NOTE:
As the sun set, another group from Lesotho passed by, warning us the struggling lady might not make it in time. Two of our guides turned back to help her, taking food and tents, true heroes, given the harsh terrain.
Day 3
Slowing Down to Find Flow
I slept like a rock, though I was sluggish in the morning. I skipped coffee, rookie mistake, and moved slower than usual. Once I had caffeine and a handful of nuts, I was reborn.
We had breakfast at a beautiful riverside spot before pushing on. The day brought long, open stretches, the sand eased up a bit, replaced by firmer ground.
Sadly, one of our "stray cats" couldn't continue because of severe blisters and had to take the exit route with the lady and guide. Toss, my hiking buddy from day one, drifted to hike with his new friend, and I won't lie, I felt abandoned.
The day seemed endless. But when we finally reached camp, the scenery was worth it. I washed my clothes, bathed in the icy river, and joined the group for a laughter filled evening under the stars.
Later, a woman from the previous group appeared alone, her team hadn't made it. She camped near us for safety. That night, I stayed up to photograph the Milky Way sky, the most spectacular I've ever seen. Pictures don't do it justice. This is why we hike.
Day 4
The Canyon Fights Back
Coffee first, always. I made sure of that. The morning was glorious, but by 10:00 a.m., the sun was punishing.
We hadn't made any of our planned stops for days, and it was catching up. My legs screamed. At one point, I literally wanted to bite a boulder (in Sepedi, "ke nyaka go loma boulder!"). That's how frustrated I was.
The sand seemed endless, my legs heavy. I hadn't stretched enough, and my muscles reminded me with every step.
Still, the scenery grew even more beautiful, vast, layered walls glowing orange and gold. Lunch was a treat, sitting with our feet in the river, cooling down.
By the time we reached camp, the wind was wild. I had to weigh my tent down with stones. When I crawled inside, sand was everywhere, in my bag, clothes, even my hair. I wanted to scream, then laughed it off. This is canyon life.
That night, the wind howled, a tent flap kept slapping in rhythm, but eventually, I drifted off.
Day 5
Crawling to Ai Ais
We rose early, 6 a.m. sharp. As we descended out of the canyon, we met another group of "stray cats", three hikers whose team had left them days before. We joined forces for the final stretch.
I set off too fast, thinking the end was close, but the canyon had one last surprise, it went on forever. The flies were relentless, but my homemade citronella spray worked, mostly.
The sand turned fine as powder, our boots sinking deep with every step. Just when I thought I couldn't take another one, I saw the hotel.
As we stepped out of the canyon, bells rang and cheers broke out. We hugged, high fived, and kicked off our boots for the best beer and lunch of my life.
